INM Nail Preparation
NAILX – INM’S DRY NATURAL NAIL PREPARATION
1. Wash and sanitize both yours and your client’s hands.
2. With the INM’s Pro Cuti Pusher, gently push back the cuticle with the spoon side of the pusher. With the opposite side of the pusher, gently remove any excess non-living tissue.
3. With a 180 Solo file, gently remove any extra free edge.
4. With a 180 Solo file, gently remove the shine from the nail plate, beginning at the cuticle and moving forward towards the free edge.
5. Remove excess dust from the nail plate.
6. Apply one coat of “Prep Step” and allow to dry completely.
7. When applying a tip, wait to apply the primer until the tip application is complete.
8. When sculpting, apply two coats of ONL Primer to the nail plate and allow to dry completely.
1. Helpful hints – When applying ONL Primer, be careful not to get primer on the cuticle. Before applying primer to the nail, wipe your brush on the sides (inside top) of your bottle, and dab lightly on a disposable towel. One brush load of primer is enough to treat all ten nails. Touch the brush to the centre of the nail plate and watch it spread towards the cuticle. Apply more only if necessary.
Out The Door Acrylic Pink and White Application
PREPARING AND APPLYING THE FORM
1. Using INM’s forms, assess the natural nail shape. If the natural nail is more oval, then with small scissors, alter the centre of the form by cutting a small moon shape to fit the free edge properly.
2. With both hands, roll the form from side to side creating an arch in the centre of the form. Place the form under the free edge and slide it back. Make sure that the form is extending straight out from the sidewalls, and when viewed from the side, it is not raised or dropped.
3. After the form is secured on the nail, pinch the underside tabs together to help define the c-curve.
4. For extra security, and to insure the form does not separate, fold the middle tab (the circle that is unused) of the form and pinch it over the underside tabs of the form.
THREE-BALL SCULPTURED NAIL APPLICATION
1. On the form, at the free edge, use clear pink or natural “OUT THE DOOR” acrylic powder and apply a large to medium sized ball (depending on length of the enhancement).
2. Use the belly of your brush to pat the product on the form, creating the free edge of the nail.
3. Apply a small ball near the cuticle and pat into place, pulling it towards the centre of the nail plate.
4. Apply a medium to small ball (depending on the length of the enhancement) in the centre of the nail (stress area), pat it out with the belly of your brush, pulling it forward to meet the free edge.
5. When the nail approaches the molding stage, remove the form and create the c-curve using your INM pinching tongs and dowel rod set.
6. Hold the tongs in place until the nail has set.
7. File, buff, and apply two coats of “Total Eclipse” for a brilliant long lasting shine. Follow with one coat of “Out the Door” topcoat.
PINK AND WHITE SCULPTURED APPLICATION
1. Apply a medium to large ball of white “OUT THE DOOR” acrylic onto the form at the free edge, but not touching the natural nail.
2. With the tip of your brush, guide the acrylic to encase the natural nail free edge on both sides of the nail.
3. Use the belly of your brush to pat out the acrylic to create your free edge.
4. Add a small ball on the sides of the smile lines (this will help you to create and define your smile line). Pull the product towards the free edge and blend it into the white.
5. Place a small ball at the cuticle, let it self-level and pull it towards the centre of the nail. At this point you can add a small ball of clear around the smile line, before adding the next ball.
6. Next apply a medium ball of pink at the stress area, allow it to self-level and guide it to cover the remainder of the nail.
7. When the nail approaches the molding stage, remove the form and create a c-curve using your INM pinching tongs and dowel rod set.
8. Hold the tongs in place until the nail has set.
9. File, buff, and apply two coats of “Total Eclipse” for a brilliant long lasting shine. Follow with one coat of “Out the Door” topcoat.
• Helpful hints – When applying the free edge you want to make sure that you build your white up to make a small wall while creating the smile line. This will ensure a white free edge that is free of any shadowing
STAGES OF ACRYLIC
1. Wet Stage – when the powder and liquid first interact until the product turns into a solid matter. Once the brush hits the powder reaction time starts, this is where too much time is wasted. This time can be anywhere from 10-15 seconds depending on temperature variations.
2. Gel Stage – when the acrylic is a solid gel like matter, which is pliable and easily moved around with a brush. This is work time and you have about 30 seconds. In this stage, the brush is used to its full potential for application. Use the brush to spread, push, and even out the acrylic throughout the nail, setting the product in its final position.
3. Molding Stage – different products have different lengths of molding stages. During this time you will mold a c-curve in the, which helps the overall nail structure. Molding time for INM’s “Out the Door” Acrylic is approximately 4 minutes.
4. Curing Stage – this is when the product starts to turn hard. From the time you start the nail to the time that it is fully hardened is approximately 6-7 minutes. When the acrylic is no longer pliable to mold or shape this is when the curing time starts.